The Design Brief™ | Volume XI | What Interior Designers Need to Know About Specifying Leather
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WRITTEN BY DR. GLORIA for DAKOTA DESIGN COMPANY
Furniture upholstered with leather is beautiful, durable, and comfortable. And, unlike fabric upholstery, leather actually takes on an appealing patina over use and time, looking better with wear! A 20-year-old leather sofa can look fantastic! So, although the initial cost for leather upholstery can be significantly more, its longevity and durability make it a very sound investment.
The leather industry has a standardized grading system for various quality levels and thicknesses of leather goods. Of course, all grades are labeled to seem appealing. Top grain, full grain, genuine leather …
They all sound really high-quality. But, when specifying leather, it’s important to understand precisely what you are getting.
So let’s break it all down.
What is the Process?
To make leather appropriate for upholstery applications, the cowhide is removed from the animal carcass, cleaned, and tanned, preserving the leather and making it durable and resistant to decay. The cleaning process removes any flesh or hair left on the hide after slaughter. Tanning prevents the hide from rotting; after all, it is a remnant from a live animal and must undergo this means of preservation. Hides may also be treated with additional chemicals and coatings to enhance their appearance and durability.
Next, cowhides are split into different layers, determining the finished leather's quality and application. A machine called a splitter segments the full hide into different thicknesses.
Upholstery leather will be split into thinner thicknesses (perhaps 1mm to 2mm), while leather for belts may be split to 3mm to 4mm thick.
What are the Pros of Leather Upholstery in Interior Design Projects?
Long-wearing durability is one of the prime advantages of leather furniture. Where fabric upholstery can fray, rip, stain, pill, and stretch, leather will not.
High-quality tanned leather (more about quality levels below) actually improves—rather than degrades—over time, developing a natural patina and softness that enhances its appearance and comfort. With time, leather will take on a worn-in look, adding character. But it will never look worn out, as fabric upholstery will after years of use. In other words, leather ages well. It has great inherent strength, sturdiness, and suppleness that makes it luxurious, and even more aesthetically appealing with use and time.
Some clients may fear that leather will not have the same feeling of warmth that fabric does, or that leather upholstery will feel cold to sit on. The opposite is really true— its suppleness and flexibility provide a warm and inviting seating experience. Leather upholstery will remain supple and comfortable throughout its useful life.
Leather upholstery is also very easy to maintain. It’s fairly moisture-resistant and liquid spills can be easily wiped off. Many things (red wine, ketchup) that would stain fabric can be easily wiped away with a damp cloth. Its surface characteristics not only add to the visual appeal but also act as a natural barrier against moisture and wear, further extending the lifespan of the leather. Plus, leather doesn’t retain dust, pet hair, dander, odors, or allergens, so it’s a much healthier choice for homes with pets, or for homeowners who have allergies. Its spill and stain resistance and its durability also make it a good choice for homes with children.
Any Cons to Specifying Leather in Interior Design Projects?
The initial cost of leather upholstery is probably the largest deterrent to purchasing. But while high-quality leather is much more expensive than most fabrics, it is also more durable over time. Its longevity means that the cost of replacements is offset in the long term.
Regarding the cost of leather, keep in mind that when purchasing leather goods (for instance, if a designer is sourcing leather to specify COL (like COM Customer-owned material, but here, Customer-owned leather), the pricing on leather is provided by the square foot. We are very used to linear yardages (one linear yard of the width of fabric) on fabric pricing, but this is quite different. The price given is for 12” x 12” of the leather material.
Although leather upholstery is quite resistant to stains from spills, leather can discolor over time when kept in direct sunlight. So it will exhibit aging over time if positioned within direct sunlight through a window.
It’s important to remember that we are dealing with the hides of slaughtered cows and other animals. Clients who are vegan or vegetarian may oppose leather upholstery as being a by-product of the meat industry or may be concerned with the treatment of the animals from whom the hides were taken. For clients with these concerns, leather is just not a good choice.
Another consideration is that there are fewer color options with leather. With fabric used for upholstery, the color options are unlimited, and there are endless options for pattern and texture as well. Leathers are available mainly in solid browns, blacks, and similar neutral colors. Leathers are sometimes dyed to other colors, but color options within upholstery lines are typically limited.
What are the Different Types (Grades) of Leather?
The leather industry has a standardized, universally recognized means of labeling various grades of leather. All leather goods are categorized as: full grain, top grain, genuine, split grain, or bonded leather. Several factors, such as the layer of the hide used, the treatment process, and natural markings, determine the leather grade.
In general, full-grain is the highest quality, followed by top-grain, split-grain, and genuine leather. Bonded leather isn’t really leather at all, but rather a mix of leather particles and other substances mixed to “bond” it together. More about that later.
Full Grain Leather
Full grain leather is taken from the uppermost layer of a hide and left natural with all the original grain and markings. It is considered the best quality part of the leather hide, and is the least processed grade of leather, as the original full grain of the hide is left intact. The natural markings, scars, and wrinkles are considered part of the natural beauty of full grain leather, as it reflects the material’s authenticity.
Because full grain leather does not undergo processes like sanding and buffing, it maintains its inherent natural texture and characteristics of a natural product, and evokes the lived experience of the animal from which it was taken.
Because it is not highly treated, better air circulation and breathability of the material is maintained, making it more comfortable to sit on in any climate. It will absorb moisture and oil and, over time, will develop a beautiful patina. It is very durable and resilient to wear through daily use and will endure for many years. Furniture upholstered with full grain leather is considered the very best quality available.
Top Grain Leather
The next highest quality leather for furniture is top grain leather. Hides for top grain leather undergo more processing than those for full grain grading. The top skin of the hide is buffed and sanded off, and the hide is polished and pigmented to remove imperfections and blemishes, which produce a smoother, softer, more consistent surface. So there is more uniformity of the surface coloring, but fewer natural, intrinsic imperfections that make leather unique. Because top grain leather can be dyed, there is also more versatility with color options. And with different finishing applications, the finished texture can range from matte to glossy, which adds versatility.
Even though top grain leather is not as breathable as full grain, the processing and sealing of the leather’s natural pores do make it more resistant to absorption, so water and oils can be easily wiped away. The processing it receives also makes it more resistant to stains and scratches, making it suitable for more abrasive wear.
While full grain leather is the highest quality leather, for most upholstered leather furniture pieces, top grain leather is often the better choice. And it is slightly less costly than full grain.
Split Grain Leather
While full grain leather is the top layer of the cow hide, split grain leather is made from the layer below that. After the top layer is split off from the lower surface of the hide, the under layers are retained for use as split grain leather. When split grain leather is brushed out, softened, and colored, it becomes suede.
Because split grain leather comes from the bottom surface of the leather hide, it has different characteristics from full or top grain leathers. It is often used for clothing, purses, or belts. An interior designer may specify suede for throw pillows, which can have a very appealing soft, pliant, velvety feel. Although not nearly as durable as top or full grain leather, suede has some inherent strength, so this is a great application for suede. However, its fuzzy surface means it is not very liquid-resistant and can stain.
When used for furniture upholstery, suede may be labeled as coated or laminated split leather, meaning it’s been covered with a plastic or low-quality film coating that has a grain-like feel. The film does not hold up to wear and tears and splits with age.
Fully upholstered pieces are not a good application for split grain leather or suede.
Genuine Leather
Genuine leather, although its name sounds good, is the lowest possible quality of leather material. It is not as durable or beautiful as high-quality leather. It is made from the leftover parts of the hide after the top parts are split off for the higher grades. It often undergoes extensive processing to have a uniform appearance and pliability and to be usable in leather goods. It does not match the superior quality inherent in full grain or top grain leathers. Genuine leather lacks the character of full grain leather and the softness of top grain.
Although it is more affordable, genuine leather will not withstand repeated wear over time. Because of its lower cost, it’s used in furniture for budget-friendly sofas and chairs. It may look fine initially, but will deteriorate with time. A throw pillow may be a fine use for genuine leather, but for seating surfaces, full or top grain should always be used for their durability and resilience.
Diagram of layers of a cow hide, and the corresponding grades of leather
Bonded Leather
Although this term is regularly used in the leather industry, bonded leather is not technically a true leather good at all.
Bonded leather is made by melding leftover leather scraps and other post-manufacturing remnants from cowhide with a synthetic bonding material. It is then embossed or spray-painted to resemble actual higher-quality leather goods.
Manufacturers are not required to divulge the percentage of actual animal leather product included in the finished product, so it is impossible to know.
It is quite inexpensive, so sofas and chairs upholstered with bonded leather can be quite appealing (true confession time: I once purchased a bonded leather sofa at a warehouse sale and was so pleased that I had found such an affordable piece!!!. Within a year it had started to peel and looked horrible. Now I know better, and so do you!!).
While it will initially resemble actual leather, bonded leather lacks durability and will crack and peel over time. Yes, it does contain actual leather, but it is really just a composite material. A good analogy would be particle board–yes, particle board is comprised of wood scraps, but it is not the same as a plank of real solid wood.
Peeling and cracking of bonded leather
Particle board: a good analogy for bonded leather
What About Faux Leather (Vinyl)?
There are a lot of great looking vinyl textile products, and sofas and chairs upholstered with vinyl on the market. Vinyl does resemble leather, although the difference between the two can usually be easily seen. Vinyl is a synthetic substance, and is very uniform in appearance. It lacks leather’s unique natural characteristics. Vinyl can be manufactured in any color, so the color possibilities are endless.
Vinyl is made from a plastic material and polymers and is often treated with wax, dyes, or polyurethane to create various colors and surface textures. And vinyl is much less expensive than natural leather, and is stain-resistant and easy to clean.
Vinyl (aka imitation leather) is a good choice for furniture if you prefer not to use real animal hide. Vinyl is quite durable and vinyl textiles will typically be labeled with abrasion resistance test results from the Wyzenbeek test (anything in excess of 30,000 double rubs indicates that it would be appropriate for heavy use).
Vinyls for upholstery tend to be used on more contemporary furniture pieces, and you will typically see real leather used on more traditional upholstered furniture. And vinyl is typically used more for commercial applications, whereas natural leather upholstery, mainly because of its cost, is typically reserved for residential applications.
Vinyl textiles
Summary
Leather upholstered furniture is most likely to be made from top grain leathers, although full grain leather hides may be used for traditional furniture upholstery where a more natural look—complete with hide demarcations—is the goal. Avoid specifying genuine or bonded leather upholstered pieces. If top grain or full grain leather is not in a client’s budget, it is much better to specify fabric or vinyl upholstery. And, always rely on your furniture reps and showroom representatives to answer any questions about quality and durability when specifying leather.
Sources:
Galen Leather. (2024, September 11). Discovering how leather is graded in 4 easy steps. https://www.galenleather.com/blogs/news/leather-grades#:~:text=Leather%20is%20categorized%20into%20five%20different%20grades%20of,of%20leather%20material%20as%20there%20are%20leather%20tanneriess.
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